I’ve just recently started microblading after working at the college for the last 3 years in marketing and admin.
One of the things I found frustrating in particular is just how many different types of micro blades there are. So I’ve done a little research and put together a guide which I think makes it easy to understand.
To choose the right micro blades there are several factors which you need to consider. These include :
- the clients skin type
- length of the clients natural hairs
- thickness of the clients natural hairs
- the desired permanent makeup style
- your experience
First it is important to understand the defining characteristics that make up a micro blade and the different variations available.
Generally micro blades are one of four shapes:
Ushape : a rounder shape that is longer in the middle and slopes gradually on both ends. This shape is best for curved strokes and back and forward filling methods.
Angled : This shape is a flat edge that tapers to a point on one end.
small angle : suitable for touch ups and short strokes
big angle : long strokes, outlining and filling
Cluster : This is where a bundle of needles are fixed together in groups of three or more and has a round edge. Best for areas of shading , powdered effect.
Flat Double :This blade is straight and is made up of two layers of needles – one on top of the other. Suitable for shading techniques.
Thickness (gauge) :
The needles that make up the micro blade are available in different thicknesses.
Thicker needles results in a thicker hair stroke when working and are suitable for clients with thick natural hairs.
Thinner needles will give a finer hair stroke. and are suitable to clients with finer natural hair.
When it comes to the base of the micro blade here are two different kind of bases to choose from.
Flexi : finished with a plastic base and is often white or yellow
This type of base is great for learning the correct pressure to work with. Beginners can have some trouble controlling the angle and direction of the stroke however.
Hard : finished with a stainless steel base. This type is much easier to control the direction and line but there is a risk of accidentally cutting too deep for inexperienced users. This type is better for thick skin and should not be used on clients with sensitive skin.
Ultimately the best blade to use is the one you feel most comfortable with and most capable of achieving a great result. A very non specific answer but just as there is a bra for every breast there is also a micro blade for every eyebrow!
At the end of the day if you are getting the results you love and are comfortable while working then u got it right!
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